The nights are drawing in and summer is well and truly behind us. One thing I really love about food and the seasons is that it helps to counteract the weather we’re experiencing and improves our mood. In summer, when the suns beating down, we have produce that’s eaten raw, chilled and fresh; tomatoes, peppers, raspberries, strawberries. Then when the warm days are just a memory, and the temperature begins to drop, root vegetables and game begin to come through to provide deeper, heartier meals. Venison is the king of game – its rich, spicy, nutty flavour lends itself so well to earthy veg that’s coming through. It’s also balanced so well with autumnal fruits: red berries, quince, apple, plum. We are using saddle of Lydney Park Estate Venison, air dried for 4 weeks, and serving it with poached quince and, my favourite of the root vegetables, salsify. The salsify is braised at a low temperature in a seaweed stock to give it a subtle umami brininess that is balanced with a sharp hit of quince on the palate. This is our main dish on the tasting menu for the next 2 months.